June 9, 2004
The cold rains of this year's late spring have turned the garden soil the color of semi-sweet chocolate. Against this shadowy tone, the young mustards and arugalas and lettuces seem to be lit from within and glow a vivid green. These leafy vegetables have been sucking up water all month and have become plump, cells full with a thick chlorophyll juice so rich it tastes green, if you can imagine that. There is life in the rains and this life expresses itself in the fancy feathered edges of the mustard leaf and in the sinus-clearing pungency of the mustard's flavor.